24 / 08 / 16
gosha rubchinskiy aw16 drop 2
The second delivery of Gosha Rubchinskiy AW16 just hit, and is now available to shop online and in store! Camo tee’s, new sweats and
knits, be quick! Here are all the looks from the designer’s PFW show, back in January, featuring Instagram-cast street models.
18 / 08 / 16
Backstage at Undercover AW16, Paris
What’s your idea of a perfect day? Setting his Undercover show to the famous Lou Reed tune and printing perfect day across the hem of a coat or two, Jun Takahashi made us contemplate the question. His agenda for Fall, he said backstage, was “making relaxwear for all ages.” There were pajamas, sweats, cozy, cocooning knits, and terrific hybridized outerwear the multigenerational appeal of which he proved by presenting it on a range of women, from young models to the likes of Christina Kruse and Hannelore Knuts to the lined-of-face and silver-haired. It was an inspired casting, and Takahashi received enthusiastic, extended applause. We saw a lesson in it: Shows starring look-alike 17-year-olds are becoming passé.
Takahashi is a rare original who follows his own path—perhaps working far away in Japan helps him on that score. But he did tap into the season’s surreal undercurrent with renderings of the work of Matthieu Bourel. The German collage artist’s images of women’s faces transformed into masks and puzzle pieces appeared on a sweatshirt, a twinset, and full pants. The effect was eerie, but
not sinister. Takahashi doubled down on the surreal with boombox and violin and sand castle–shaped bags; on their heads the models wore dried hydrangeas, branches, and crowns of thorns. The show finished with a trio of barefoot priestesses, their fancy bustier ballgowns affixed to simpler long-sleeved dresses underneath them. We could try parsing Takahashi’s intentions, but it’s the clothes, not the runway dramatics, that will live on.
The outerwear in particular was interesting. Like his fellow Japanese designers (Sacai’s Chitose Abe comes to mind), Takahashi has a thing for hybridizing. He did a shaker-stitch cardigan coat with leather-patch pockets and mismatched sleeves. The silver-haired model’s coat combined double-face cashmere with cotton chino lining and a puffer-jacket back. Both of them were strange and wonderful, and, yep, just about perfect.
New to FABRIC, find a selection from Undercover in store now and online soon. Words / Vogue. Photography / Dazed.
15 / 08 / 16
fabric tv: transparent season 3, get ready to feel some serious feelings
There was an unfortunate period of time when we forgot about Transparent being the best TV series ever, and now the flame is reignited with the release of Season 3′s trailer. We re-watched every episode we could, and are exuberantly hopping back on board the Pfefferman family’s crazy/dysfunctional + inspiring train of self-discovery.
Starring the brilliant Jeffrey Tambor (‘Arrested Development’) as Maura, the head of the family transitioning from patriarch to matriarch, alongside Judith Light, Amy Landecker, Jay Duplass, the weird/wonderful Gaby Hoffman (‘Girls’), and sort-of co-starring Carrie Brownstein (‘Portlandia’), Season 3 sees boss as Angelica Huston take her Season 2 introduction from cameo to a fully fleshed-out casting as Maura’s “new friend” Vicky, which is going to be amazing.
For those who are unfamiliar with the show, it centres around Maura as she embraces her new journey, but discovers that nothing about life as a woman is easy – making friends, finding a new community, and above all, coming out to her children. The reason Transparent is
so incredible, is that it goes beyond Maura’s story, and sees how, following Maura’s admission, the entire LA family’s secrets start to dramatically spill out, and each of them spin off in different directions as they begin to figure out who they are (and spiral out of control in the process).
Based on creator/director Jill Soloway’s own experiences with her transgender parent, as part of the making of the show, Soloway enacted a “transfirmative action program”, whereby transgender applicants are hired in preference to non-transgender ones. As of August 2014, over eighty transgender people have worked on the show, as actors, consultants, co-producers and writers. Golden Globes, Emmys, Screen Actors Guild Awards… This show is bonafide critically acclaimed you guys.
Another reason to love Transparent – the soundtrack is beautiful, and enhances every moment of hilarity, sadness and nostalgia to dramatic effect. When the first notes of composer Dustin O’Halloran’s (Previous work: Sofia Coppola’s ‘Marie Antoinette’) original theme ring out, get ready to feel some serious feelings.
03 / 08 / 16
introducing: grace by grace coddington
Here we go! The new COMME des GARÇONS x Grace Coddington fragrance, ‘Grace by Grace Coddington’, is now available in store and online at FABRIC!
“At this point, I wouldn’t call myself a stylist. I’m working on campaigns, but it’s more than just styling. Rather than just putting clothes on the girls, I’m focusing on the overall direction of the campaign. When people think about my style, I think they see that I put a narrative into the story. Because I like to put things in a place—a dress needs a situation. Everything is lifestyle, but an enhanced lifestyle at the same time. It’s always a romantic vision of life.
[I went freelance] when a friend of mine, who I had worked with, asked me, ‘Don’t you want to do some new projects?’ I didn’t really know because I was still full-time at Vogue. And then she asked me, ‘Would you like to do a perfume?’ So I said yes, and we started going around to all the places to try and sell the idea. Everybody seemed very interested, but it was looking like a very long process. I kept saying, you know, ‘Don’t make it too long, because I’m quite old! I want to be around when it comes out.’ There was always another meeting and someone else to meet, so we started to get disheartened. At one point I said, ‘I’m going to call up Adrian [Joffe] at Comme des Garçons.’ He’s a friend of mine, and he just happened
to be in town, which was fantastic, because he’s not often here. He said, ‘Oh, come ‘round now. Yes, I’ll do it.’ Even on the phone, he said, ‘I’ll do it!’ To work with someone that’s so spontaneous is really extraordinary. He was very excited to do it, and it kind of sprang from that.
When we started working with the nose on Grace by Grace Coddington, I said I wanted something pure. I love the smell of roses, but I’ve gone through so many perfumes that just cling and make you feel claustrophobic. I like something that’s fresh but still smelled of roses. The first fragrance I wore was from Floris, just a very light toilet water—I like the old-fashioned-ness of it. And then I had a Calvin era…he brought me to America, so I wore the first Calvin Klein fragrance for a while. But that’s a little strong, and I hate strong things. More recently, I wore the Hermés Rose Ikebana. I love the Hermés perfumes. I think they’re amazing, really amazing. So that’s my history and what we were working with during the two years we developed the scent. That said, I wouldn’t say I’m driven by scent… I mean, I’m very aware of smells—usually bad ones! I choke on candles. Air fresheners are the worst!”
As told to Into The Gloss. Grace Coddington photographed by Tom Newton at her home in New York on April 8, 2016.
02 / 08 / 16
Item of the week: Cocoon Coat by harris wharf london
Harris Wharf London is a brand a little off the radar, but they do one thing beautifully, and one thing only – Coats. We are very pleased to have back in stock the sell-out Cocoon Coat, by Harris Wharf London. Made in Italy, yet designed with London sensibilities, each coat comes from a family-run, Turin-based historical factory, and we recently had the pleasure of meeting with lovely Aldo, one half of the brother-sister duo behind the brand, at the Tranoï trade show during Paris Mens Fashion Week, earlier in July.
With a subtle cocoon shape, and crafted from a pure pressed virgin wool, the Cocoon Coat is unlined for added versatility and a lightweight feel. Its defining feature are the laser cut edges and exposed seam details, which creates a perfectly modern and minimal silhouette, lending itself perfectly to any wardrobe. A standout favourite with the FABRIC team, find our selection from Harris Wharf, along with all new Winter arrivals, in store and online.